Skip to content

Welcome guest

Please login or register
📝 Article 3 : Le Cœur de l'Aiguisage – Le Guide Complet des Grains et de l'Abrasivité

📝 Article 3: The Heart of Sharpening – The Complete Guide to Grits and Abrasiveness

Sharpening Grit Guide: From 200 to 6000 – Choosing the Right Stone or Abrasive for Sharpening


💎 Introduction: Gradual Sharpening, the Secret to Successful Sharpening

You now understand the vocabulary (Article 1) and the importance of a constant angle (Article 2). The next step, and perhaps the most practical, is to understand how the abrasive surface you are using works with the material. This is the role of the sharpening grains .

Whether you use a waterstone, an oilstone, or a rolling sharpener equipped with diamond discs, the quality of the work depends on the grit size. The secret to professional sharpening lies in methodical progression : first, remove the damaged material quickly with a coarse grit, then gradually refine the micro-scratches left by the previous grit to achieve a polished, sharp finish.

Let's discover together the grain scale and the correct sequence to follow.


1. What is a Sharpening Grain?

The concept of grain (or grit in English) corresponds to the size and density of the abrasive particles present on the surface of the tool (stone, grinding wheel, diamond disc).

1.1. Measurement Systems

Several standards exist, but the two main ones encountered are:

  • JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards): The most common standard for water stones. The higher the JIS number, the finer the grit (less abrasive).

  • FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives) / ANSI (American National Standards Institute): Used for other types of abrasives (grinding wheels, papers, diamond abrasives). The numbers may differ slightly for the same grit.

To simplify: We will use here the most common grit numbers (based on the JIS standard for examples) which represent a universal fineness in the world of sharpening.

1.2. From Brick to Mirror: The Role of Grain

The grain dictates the cutting speed and the finish:

  • Coarse Grit (Low Grit): Remove a lot of material quickly (high abrasion rate). They leave deep scratches and are used to repair significant damage or change the angle.

  • Fine Grits (High numbers): Remove very little material, but polish the surface and refine micro-scratches. They are used for finishing and achieving a razor-sharp edge.


2. The Spectrum of Grains: From Repair to Polishing

Here is a classification of the most commonly used grains, from the most aggressive to the gentlest:

2.1. "Renovation" Grains (200 to 400)

Grain Use Objective
200 - 400 Repair and Establishment of the Angle Very aggressive material removal. For very damaged, chipped knives, or to completely change an angle (for example, going from 20° to 15°).
Why start with a 400 grit? This is the ideal starting point if your knife is dull. It allows you to quickly remove all the damaged material and restore the bevel to the desired angle (see Article 2).

2.2. The "Working" Grains (600 to 1000)

Grain Use Objective
600 - 800 Progression and Refinement Transition grit. It effectively removes deep scratches left by 400 grit and prepares the surface for finishing.
1000 Creation of the Useful Thread / Pre-polishing This is the most versatile grit. It allows you to create a very efficient edge for everyday use. Many cooks stick with 1000 grit because it offers a sharp edge with enough bite to effortlessly slice through tomato skins.

2.3. "Finishing" Grains (3000 and Above)

Grain Use Objective
3000 Fine Polishing Used to remove micro-scratches from the 1000 and obtain a softer edge, ideal for very precise cuts where the least possible friction is desired (sushi, delicate vegetables).
6000 and over Mirror/Shavel Finish For enthusiasts. The edge becomes ultra-polished, with a "mirror" finish. The goal is to achieve the sharpest possible edge.


3. The Crucial Importance of Sequential Order

You cannot go directly from a 4000 grit to a heavily damaged knife, nor can you go directly from a 400 grit to a 6000 grit. The sharpening process is a step-by-step process:

Step 1: Damage Removal (e.g., 400 grit)

You use 400 grit sandpaper to restore the geometry of your bevel. This grit leaves deep scratches, but it is fast.

Step 2: Scratch Removal (e.g., 1000 grit)

This is the most important step. The 1000 grit sandpaper shouldn't just sharpen; it should remove all the scratches left by the 400 grit. If you leave deep scratches, your edge will be brittle and the cutting edge won't last.

Step 3: Polishing and Finishing (e.g., 3000 grit)

The 3000 grit refines the scratches of the 1000 grit, making the wire smoother and more resistant to twisting.

The process is cumulative.

Sharpening is the process of replacing the scratches left by the previous grit with the finer scratches of the next grit. If you don't spend enough time on a grit, the previous scratches remain, and the cutting edge will be less durable.


4. The Advantages of Diamond Abrasives and Modern Systems

The choice of grain also applies to modern solutions:

  • Diamond Abrasives: Often used in rolling systems or guided platforms, diamond discs or surfaces have a very high aggressiveness and are extremely fast at removing material. They are ideal for beginners as they require less effort and time.

  • Simplicity: An effective modern sharpener often comes with the essential grits: a 400 grit (or diamond equivalent) for quick restoration and a 1000 grit (or ceramic/diamond equivalent) for finishing and polishing. This simplifies the learning curve by eliminating the need to buy 6 or 7 different stones.

💡 Key takeaway: The ideal couple
400 grit: Your working grit. For restoring and re-establishing angles.
1000 grit: Your basic finishing grit. For polishing and achieving the optimal working edge.

5. 🗃️ Summary: The Role of Key Grains

Grain (JIS example) Role Abrasion Speed Result
400 Repair / Restore the bevel Very Fast Deep scratches (need to be thinned)
1000 Refining / Working edge Moderate Good cutting edge, ideal "bite" for cooking
3000+ Polishing / Finishing Slow Mirror-like sharpness, very smooth

✨ Conclusion and Next Step

You now have a firm grasp of the three theoretical pillars: the anatomy of the cut, the importance of the angle, and the role of the grit. Choosing the right abrasive is just as important as maintaining the angle.

The question now is: How to apply these grits and this angle? Should we choose a whetstone, a sharpening steel, or a more modern and safer method?

In our next article, we will review the main sharpening methods, comparing their advantages and disadvantages, and clarifying the time and safety constraints.

➡️ Go to Article 4: Stone, Sharpening Steel or Modern Sharpener: Comparison of Sharpening Methods.

📝 Article 2 : L'Angle Parfait – Maîtriser les Angles d'Aiguisage (15° vs 20°)
📝 Article 4 : Pierre, Fusil ou Aiguiseur Moderne – Comparatif des Méthodes d'Aiguisage

Your Cart

🚚 TRACKED DELIVERY IN 3 TO 10 DAYS

FREE RETURNS!
Enjoy 10% off your next order.


Your cart is currently empty

Your Wishlist