We're nearing the end of our gastronomic tour of France. For this fourth installment of the "Sauce Guide," we're going to talk about a sauce that everyone thinks they know, but very few truly master. Forget ketchup and those industrial jars: this is Tomato Sauce, haute couture style.
If you ask someone on the street how to make tomato sauce, they'll talk about Italy, basil, and pasta. But for Auguste Escoffier , Tomato Sauce is a "Mother Sauce" that adheres to very precise preparation methods, far removed from a simple grandmother's coulis.
This is the only sauce on our list that incorporates fresh vegetables and, in its original version, a touch of cured meat for depth. It's a subtle balance of acidity, sweetness, and umami.
The Story: From the New World to the Ritz
The tomato was long viewed with suspicion in Europe, considered an ornamental plant (and sometimes toxic!). It was only in the 19th century that it truly gained popularity.
Escoffier, by naming it "Sauce Mère", gave it its prestige. His version was revolutionary because it used a blond roux to bind the tomato juice, giving it a velvety texture and exceptional consistency that Italian sauces, more "rustic" and liquid, did not have.
The Science of Taste: The Acid-Sugar Balance
The challenge with tomato sauce is to tame its natural acidity.
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The Secret of Fat: Escoffier often added pork belly (lard) and a mirepoix of vegetables. The fat from the lard coats the acidity of the tomato, making it more rounded on the palate.
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The Roux Liaison: Unlike reduction alone, the roux helps to fix the flavors and to obtain a sauce that does not "release water" on the plate.
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Concentration: A good tomato sauce doesn't boil, it simmers. It's the slow evaporation that transforms the acidic juice into a sweet nectar.
The Just Cook Eat Technique: The Step-by-Step Guide
The essential ingredients:
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Tomatoes: Fresh, ripe tomatoes (or good quality canned peeled tomatoes).
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The Roux: 40g of butter and 40g of flour.
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The Garnish: Onions, carrots, a clove of garlic, and a piece of salt pork belly.
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The Liquid: A little veal stock for depth.
The chefs' method:
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The Suage: Fry the diced bacon, carrots and onions in a little butter.
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The Binding: Add the flour to make a blond roux directly with the vegetables.
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The Moistening: Add the crushed tomatoes, garlic and veal stock. Mix well.
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Long Cooking: Cover and simmer over very low heat (or in the oven at 150°C) for 1.5 to 2 hours.
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The Finishing Touch: Pass the sauce through a chinois or vegetable mill for a perfectly smooth and glossy texture.
The Family Tree: 10 Tomato-Derived Sauces
Mastering this basic knowledge will allow you to travel all around the Mediterranean:
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Portuguese Sauce: Add fresh chopped tomatoes at the end of cooking and plenty of garlic.
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Milanese sauce: A tomato sauce enriched with mushrooms, ham and beef tongue.
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Provençal Sauce: Add herbs de Provence, olives and capers.
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Creole Sauce: Onions, celery, green peppers and a touch of chili.
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Italian Sauce: Reduction with chopped mushrooms and cured ham.
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Neapolitan Sauce: Simplicity itself, with garlic, olive oil and fresh basil.
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Spanish sauce (tomato version): Do not confuse with brown mother sauce! This is a tomato sauce with grilled peppers.
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Bolognese sauce (French style): The mother tomato sauce with added minced beef, browned.
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Arrabbiata sauce: For those who love a bit of heat, with a generous dose of dried red chili pepper.
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Homemade Barbecue Sauce: Use your tomato sauce as a base, add cider vinegar, brown sugar and liquid smoke (or smoked paprika).
The Chief's Council
If your sauce is too acidic at the end, don't reach for the white sugar. My favorite technique? Add a small knob of cold butter off the heat and whisk vigorously. The butter will neutralize the acidity and give your sauce an incomparable shine.
Want to bring the scent of sunshine into your kitchen? Try this base with our melt-in-your-mouth beef meatballs and homemade tomato sauce - Coming soon to just-cook-eat.com!
Stay tuned, because the next and final chapter is the most perilous, but also the most rewarding: Hollandaise Sauce: The Ultimate Emulsion Challenge
Let's finish on a high note with Article 5 "Hollandaise Sauce"
